Minerva - Linen Jumpsuit #V1645

Happy Spring!

With the warmer months now approaching I am excited to start adding some new clothes to my wardrobe. This includes Vogue Pattern #V1645, a misses jumpsuit with an asymmetrical mock-wrap detail and self-belt. As soon as I saw this pattern I knew I needed to add it to my pattern stash. I don’t often make or wear jumpsuits, however this one caught my eye. With a wrap-front panel, this jumpsuit is very unique and most-of-all, easily customizable for my body shape. I have a short torso and jumpsuits are often too long and I end up with a sagging crotch. Not a good look for anyone.

But what I loved about this jumpsuit was although it has a center back waistline, the front has no distinguishable waistline so I could easily adjust the positioning of the belt to sit up higher on my shorter torso. I was also able to shorten the pattern pieces before I cut it out to help alleviate the extra fabric.

This pattern has so many details to make it special. The back bodice pattern has unique structuring, allowing for the seams to match up perfectly with the darts to create one cohesive line. The side seams also have an insert to create unique style lines and tie in with the over-extended shoulder seam. I even liked the length of the pant legs; they are cropped enough to show off a cute shoe.

To make this fun jumpsuit I chose to use Minerva’s Textured 100% Linen Dress Fabric. As the original pattern envelope shows, I wanted to use their Navy Blue-colored linen. Blue is one of my favorite colors to wear, and the choice of color looks great with this pattern. I love how this linen worked for this garment, the color is dark but still light enough to show all the details of the jumpsuit. And it’s such an easy color to wear for all different kinds of skin tones.

What I especially love about this linen navy fabric has multiple tones of blues and hints of purple in the fibers. The fabric looks to be dyed after it is woven so the threads pick up different amounts of color, adding a dimension to the cloth. It is also not too-deeply saturated so you can pick up on more reflections of light; it is easier to see the texture of fabric from a distance.

Linen can be tricky to work with. While it presses beautifully, it can wrinkle just as easily. I think I ironed my jumpsuit 3 times before I put it on, and it still shows some wrinkles. However, it creates more dimension and texture to the overall look. This linen fabric is also lightweight, soft, and breathable. Perfect for this unlined pattern.

For this pattern you will need a 7” invisible zipper, a 1.5” metal buckle (self covered optional) and 3 eyelets for the belt notches. The package also calls for 7 (seven) packages of ¼” double-fold bias tape…. Before starting this project I knew I wanted to purchase all the supplies beforehand so that I would not be discouraged or have a reason to stop sewing. So I picked out 7 packages of bias tape from Pacific Trimming as well as a silver buckle.

What I did not do was to double check the pattern instructions beforehand… while the envelope talks about bias tape, the instructions do not talk about it anywhere. Now I know the bias tape was probably meant to be used to finish the raw edges of the facing for the bodice and overlay, however the instructions talked about folding under the raw edge (or in my case using a serger).

So in the end, I did not end up needing these seven packages. When I went to Pacific to try to exchange them for different colors and sizes, I was told it was a final sale purchase….

If anyone knows a project needing this much ¼” double-fold bias tape in black, let me know!

Scroll down to see how the jumpsuit turned out:


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